1968 Mustang/Shelby Clone

I have been working on this car for about 3 years now.

One of my closest friends and another Mustang fanatic died in 2009. Because this is one of the year cars he and I always worked on, and because I think of him every time I work on this car, it is dedicated to the memory of Herb Stein. One of Herb's all time favorite sayings was, "Everything else equal, cubic inches wins!"

Most of the time I strive to restore a Mustang to its original condition. However, this is my first major attempt to create my own resto-mod Mustang (Shelby Clone). I am adding things not found on the original car, such as A/C, front disc brakes, an AOD transmission, 351 Windsor, electronic ignition and eventually fuel injection.

As for the radio, it will receive a simple AM/FM radio with door speakers. When it is done, the interior will have been updated to a deluxe interior with all the Shelby trimmings, the paint job will be a Lime green exterior with white stripes, medium saddle interior. I have pre-fitted an overhead console. Complete restoration progress can be found by clicking the "Mustang Data" hyperlink on this page, then selecting 1968 Shelby Clone under "Restorations".

Varoom :)

Restoration/build saga

Below are pictures of the rear fiberglass fittings. Final fittings will be done after the trunk weatherstripping is installed.

lr quarterrr quarterextensionrear 2

Currently we are fitting the fiberglass front end on the car. The front end comes in 4 major pieces and needs to align with the fenders, hood, front bumper brackets and front bumper.Rather slow aligning and fitting process. Hope to get everyting installed by mid February.

February 7, 2010 -

Today was a back up day.In otherwords, we took a few steps back to correct a misaligned door. The passenger door was not aligned up quite right, so Roger took the fender off and worked about 2 hours getting the door to fit correctly. Then the fender got hung in about 5 minutes and we were on to puttting on the Shelby fiberglass nose pieces.

Starting with the driver headlight bucket, we hung that one, . installed the Passenger headlight bucket and then adjusted the fender's separation until the upper hood extension fit correctly.frt lowerfrt

Also today, I installed the 26 or so trim retaining clips into the nose trim pieces in preparation of prefitting the trim into the fiberglass front end.

Roger left about noon to go home and serve some family time. So I did some work on the 1972 Mustang Sprint. Until next time, adios.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Oops, while attempting to install the 351 Windsor into the car a clevis pin broke and the engine went crunch, and fell to the floor. Fortunately all we were doing at the time was removing the engine from the engine stand and lowering it to the floor to install the transmission.

A brand new chrome oil pan was custom modified in a shape that does not aappeal to me. So, I have ordered a new one. The install has been temporarily defered until later this week. Normally when installing an engine, we use a safety chain hung from the stout steel box-beam frame. I think from now on, we will use a safety chain during all steps. Thank God no one was hurt. With a very loud bang, the engine set on the floor atop a very badly mangled NEW chrome oil pan. Ergo, a new pan was ordered first thing Monday morning and I installed it early the next morning. As much as I was ticked off about the oil pan, no one was hurt and that is a blessing. From now on, I will no longer drop in an engine. I will either swap install. or install the engines.

February 20, 2001

Today my neighbor showed up as I was installing the engine. We dropped in the engine and transmission as a unit. Next, after the engine was set properly in the motor mounts, we bolted the transmission crossmember to the transmission and then slid the transmission tunnel support brace into position. I then welded it into place.

Engine installed

February 21, 2010

Another wonderful day in the Ozarks. Today I cut the holes in the wheel wells to mount the functional rear brake scoop hoses. Also put a new coat of paint on most of the interior trim parts. Installed the turn signal switch into the steering column, reinstalled the hood, condenser coil, and fiberglass nose pieces I removed for engine installation.

brake hole 1brake hole 2

February 24, 2010

Roger finished welding in the transmission tunnel suport. I installed the 3G alternatorand got the exhaust parts set out in preparation of starting on the exhaust system. The rear brake ducts are ready to be bonded into place. I will start that process tomorrow weather and time permitting.

The engine!

One of the biggest worries about installing the 351 Windsor in the car was getting pulleys and brackets to fit all the components. Here is the scoop. DON'T buy individual pulleys and mounting brackets off eBay! Go to a junk yard and get everything off one 302 or 351 W engine of the same year and with the options you need (PS, ALT, A/C).

If you get stuff off a 351W, make sure it is one with the front mounting dip stick. The car it comes off of does not really matter. You can always work around this.

If you get everything off a 302, again make sure it has a front mounted dip stick. Next, you must have a 351 W Air conditioner mounting base. One from a 302 will not work because the 351 heads are about 1 inch taller. Also, the aluminum spacer that holds the alternator on will need to be adapted by buying the 351 spacer, or shimming with washers.

February 26, 2010

Well, Today I hauled off an old junk car to the crusher. Inside the car my son Brad and I stuffed about 1/2 of an additional car. Inside the engine compartment, we added a 1972 mustang door, a '68 roof skin, an old 8' differential, a fender, and several more big parts. The trunk was stuffed with old scrap steel parts as well. We basically added 1500 pounds of scrap steel to the inside of the car.

That was the most productive thing I accomplished all day. On the 1968, I first installed the lower functional brake scoop hoses. This took about 3 hours to do a 30 minute job. But it is hard to be inside the car and under the wheelwells at the same time. Eventually, that job was done.

Next I moved on to installing the exhaust manifolds that I removed when installing the engine. Here , I would like to add the right manifold went on quite easily. When I started to install the left manifold I decided that the Power steering hoses would we installed easier if they were put on before the remaining exhaust manifold. This was a correct assumption, however I first had to make a trip to the local auto parts store to get tie existing hose shortened by about 2 feet. The hose was brand new in the box when I bought the parts, but there was no where to stuff 2 extra feed of P/S line. So I had it shortened! That job too about 2 hours. Next came the left hand exhaust manifold. After trying to get it in from the top, up from the bottom and every other way, it became obvious I had to remove the master cylinder. Then it became obvious I had to remove the valve cover.Then it became obvious I had to jack up one side of the engine. Then after I got the manifold stuck and could not get it in or out, it became obvious I needed help. Call Lewis my neighbor, and get him to come over. With Lewis' help, and one person at the jack and one person on the topside, it finally fell into place. In went the bolts, lower the engine and get out the coffee. That was it for the day. Well almost! We did search and find some missing parts that I will soon need in the assembly process.

March 15, 2010

Well, Here I am back again. Where to start? The exhaust system is hung and other than tightening down the clamps is ready to go. I installed the rear U-joint on the driveshaft , installed the front yoke on the drive shaft and tried to install the driveshaft into the vehicle. It did not fit! Bastard! Anyway, I grabbed the wrong drive shaft from the rack. I grabbed the one for a 1968 Mustang and I needed the one from a 1972 Mustang. The difference is that I am installing an AOD (automatic overdrive transmission) in the 1968 Shelby clone and not the regular C4 transmission. The transmissions are different lengths and therefore a shorter driveshaft is required. This may not seem like a big deal, but before I reuse any part, it gets stripped, and either media or sand blasted to clear off any rust and debris, then rust converted for any remaining blemishes, then painted. This is not a terribly long process except the painting part which takes a long time to dry in 45 degree weather. And worse of all it is a delay. But, it got don and reinstalled this past weekend.

In all it has been a very productive time since I last updated these pages. I mouse proofed the functional brake scoops, added the interior brake scoop ducts, installed the brake scoops. Installed the new wiring harness into the car, Installed front side marker lights, pre fitted the front turn signal lights into the lower front valance,and wired part of the engine compartment primary electrical circuit. Additionally, the rear wiring harness is installed and connected to the front harness, two additional wires are run to the rear of the rear courtesy lights and a power lead for the overhead console and future LED power circuit. Both heater hoses are hooked down to the heater core and the front of the engine. There has been a lot of work done, but it is insignificant and by looking at the vehicle, one cannot tell the progress. However, soon I shall post some new pictures, I want to hook all the electrical wires down and connected first.

Till next time, Adios!

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